Unveiling the impact of topical formulations on the organisation of skin lipid barrier

X-ray diffraction reveals the structural organisation of the intercorneocyte lipids in the stratum corneum

X-ray microdiffraction (µXRD) unveils the structural organization of the intercorneocyte lipids in the stratum corneum :

  • Lamellar stacking (SAXS) => layer thickness and organization quality
  • Crystalline and fluid structures inside the lipid layers (WAXS) => hexagonal/orthorhombic/amorphous


Protocol

  • Skin model: isolated piece of human SC or stripping
  • Sample preparation: topical or systemic application of a semi-solid or liquid dosage form (no marker needed)
  • Data collection at a synchrotron facility


Information obtained

  • Product penetration into the stratum corneum
  • Product interaction with the SC lipids
    • merging with the SC lipids
    • fluidization vs crystallization
    • filling empty pores
  • Effect on the keratin
  • Effect vs depth, time
  • Surface film characterization

Example: a well-known commercial face and body cream

The cream disrupts the molecular architecture of inter-cellular lipids in the outer side while those in the epidermal side are not modified.

The impact of topical formulations on the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum is frequently studied for cosmetic purposes using µ-XRD. This technique is now gaining traction in the pharmaceutical field, offering novel and valuable insights that can significantly benefit R&D and formulation.

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