Anti-aging skincare seen through collagen fibres organisation

Novitom has developed an original test based on the analysis of the quality of the organisation of collagen fibres. Collagen, which is the main constituent of the dermis, largely determines its flexibility during aging.

Two techniques are combined:

 

This dual approach enables the detection of very weak and early aging effects. This explains the growing success of this test in the cosmetics industry.

collagen_AFM_600nm

Novitom, in collaboration with Lipotec -Lubrizol co-developed a new in vitro biophysical approach to substantiate anti-aging claims based on topography of collagen fibres using Atomic Force Microscopy technique (AFM) and Small Angle X ray Scattering (SAXS).

The combination of the two techniques highlights the quality of the collagen organisation in dermis from nano to micro scale. The AFM technique provides direct visual information on collagen microfibrils (cohesion curvature density) while the SAXS technique gives information on the internal architecture of microfibrils (lateral and longitudinal stacking of triple helices). These data are therefore complementary.

The two types of measurements combine advantageously qualitative images at the interfibrillary level with quantitative structural parameters at the intrafibrillary level.

The AFM technique probes the topography of the collagen lattice at very high spatial resolution.

The peaks observed through the SAXS technique provide the 65 nm period (band-structure) along the collagen microfibrils. The intensity of these peaks being proportional to the crystalline grade, the quality of the intra-fibrillar stacking can be quantified.

Further reading about hair and skin care products and their effects

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Structural analysis of human Stratum corneum lamellar structure

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