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Accueil » Articles et actualités » Unveiling the impact of topical formulations on the organization of stratum corneum lipid barrier using X-ray micro-diffraction

Unveiling the impact of topical formulations on the organization of stratum corneum lipid barrier using X-ray micro-diffraction

X-ray diffraction reveals the structural organisation of the intercorneocyte lipids in the stratum corneum

X-ray microdiffraction (µXRD) unveils the structural organization of the intercorneocyte lipids in the stratum corneum :

Lamellar stacking (SAXS) => layer thickness and organization quality

Crystalline and fluid structures inside the lipid layers (WAXS) => hexagonal/orthorhombic/amorphous

Protocol

Skin model: isolated piece of human SC or stripping
Sample preparation: topical or systemic application of a semi-solid or liquid dosage form (no marker needed)
Data collection at a synchrotron facility

Information obtained

Product penetration into the stratum corneum
Product interaction with the SC lipids
- merging with the SC lipids
- fluidization vs crystallization
- filling empty pores
Effect on the keratin
Effect vs depth, time
Surface film characterization

Example: a well-known commercial face and body cream

Nivea® cream disrupts the molecular architecture of inter-cellular lipids in the outer side while those in the epidermal side are not modified.

The impact of topical formulations on the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum is frequently studied for cosmetic purposes using µ-XRD. This technique is now gaining traction in the pharmaceutical field, offering novel and valuable insights that can significantly benefit R&D and formulation.

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$Unveiling the impact of topical formulations on the organization of stratum corneum lipid barrier using X-ray micro-diffraction$